View Full Version : I told you this was coming
MJZiggy
04-05-2006, 04:16 PM
Here we go again!
Does anyone know how to nail trim onto a metal doorframe? I'm not really interested in trashing either the door or the trim doing this. By the way, my dad gave me a really cool method for cutting the trim if anyone is interested.
Also, I still haven't gotten a response from the guy at the window place. Useless trash!!!
billy_oliver880
04-05-2006, 05:55 PM
Here we go again!
Does anyone know how to nail trim onto a metal doorframe? I'm not really interested in trashing either the door or the trim doing this. By the way, my dad gave me a really cool method for cutting the trim if anyone is interested.
Also, I still haven't gotten a response from the guy at the window place. Useless trash!!!
You want to nail trim onto a metal doorframe....Paint me a better picture. What kind of trim and is the rough opening around the door frame wood or not?
billy_oliver880
04-05-2006, 06:01 PM
It is quite possible for you to drill pilot holes through the steel frame and match holes with the trim and use self tapping metal screws. That should do the trick.
MJZiggy
04-05-2006, 06:05 PM
The door's been installed, and the 2x4 in the opening is covered by the metal door frame 1 3/4 inches. There is a light switch near the door which tells me that there is another stud but it's at least another inch out if not on the other side of the switch. Assuming that the trim (2 inches wide) is to be installed 1/4 inch from the door, I will have to nail it through the metal into the stud beneath it.
billy_oliver880
04-05-2006, 06:16 PM
The door's been installed, and the 2x4 in the opening is covered by the metal door frame 1 3/4 inches. There is a light switch near the door which tells me that there is another stud but it's at least another inch out if not on the other side of the switch. Assuming that the trim (2 inches wide) is to be installed 1/4 inch from the door, I will have to nail it through the metal into the stud beneath it.
Drill holes through your steel frame and nail through to the stud...doors will have 2 2x4 on either side of the steel frame. Each 2x4 is actually 1 1/2 inchs wide so you are going to have 3 inches of nailing space around the door. Assuming you are going a 1/4 from flush with the inside of the frame you should be just fine. Confused yet...cause I am. :lol:
MJZiggy
04-05-2006, 06:59 PM
Thanks. I actually understood that quite clearly. We must be confused the same way.
woodbuck27
04-05-2006, 07:06 PM
Thanks. I actually understood that quite clearly. We must be confused the same way.
Sorry Ziggy put I got caught up in a post and my Puter is really erratic and it took awhile. Too long ! Looks like your set anyway.
Ed.
MJZiggy
04-05-2006, 07:10 PM
Thanks, Buck.
Deputy Nutz
04-05-2006, 09:29 PM
The screws and the pilot hole sound like good advice, or you could by some extra strong durable calk/glue and glue the trim on. They make some stuff and sell it at Menards or Home Depot.
MJZiggy
04-05-2006, 09:38 PM
Thanks, Nutz (though out here it's Lowes) Nice to know Menards is still hanging on. Are you talking like Liquid Nails? Should I use regular or the mirror formula that someone neglected to use when they applied a full-length mirror to my hollow bathroom door?
How thick is standard drywall, I don't remember.
imscott72
04-05-2006, 09:55 PM
I thought you were married?
MJZiggy
04-05-2006, 10:03 PM
He's not so handy. He does electric and spackling. Otherwise it's me. Except if it requires a circular saw. I can handle the miter saw, but the circular is too heavy.
billy_oliver880
04-05-2006, 10:06 PM
Standard drywall is 1/2 thick.
MJZiggy
04-05-2006, 10:08 PM
Thank you. Now I know where to put in the last countertop support.
billy_oliver880
04-05-2006, 10:18 PM
Did you get to put your trim on? Hope everything works out well.
Deputy Nutz
04-05-2006, 10:57 PM
It ain't liquid glue, that stuff is kinda shitty. Go to the calk department, and actually ask the customer service rep what to get. I think it is called the gripper or something.
imscott72
04-05-2006, 11:35 PM
He's not so handy. He does electric and spackling. Otherwise it's me. Except if it requires a circular saw. I can handle the miter saw, but the circular is too heavy.
I'm not too handy either. My dad never taught me how to do that stuff. I have to hit up a buddy or hire someone when I need things like that done..It sucks..
HarveyWallbangers
04-05-2006, 11:47 PM
I'm not too handy either. My dad never taught me how to do that stuff. I have to hit up a buddy or hire someone when I need things like that done..It sucks..
I'm with. I told my wife that's what she gets for marrying a programmer.
MJZiggy
04-06-2006, 06:42 AM
I'm not too handy either. My dad never taught me how to do that stuff. I have to hit up a buddy or hire someone when I need things like that done..It sucks..
I'm with. I told my wife that's what she gets for marrying a programmer.Ding, ding. We have a winner. Computers are the anti-handy.
Iron Mike
04-06-2006, 07:09 AM
The screws and the pilot hole sound like good advice, or you could by some extra strong durable calk/glue and glue the trim on. They make some stuff and sell it at Menards or Home Depot.
Don't do that. If you need to remove the trim down the road, you'll wind up wrecking the wall.
MJZiggy
04-06-2006, 07:11 AM
What do you suggest?
Iron Mike
04-06-2006, 07:14 AM
Drill holes through your steel frame and nail through to the stud...doors will have 2 2x4 on either side of the steel frame. Each 2x4 is actually 1 1/2 inchs wide so you are going to have 3 inches of nailing space around the door. Assuming you are going a 1/4 from flush with the inside of the frame you should be just fine.
This is the best idea. Use a small drill bit though....smaller than the finishing nail.
MJZiggy
04-06-2006, 07:22 AM
1/32?
billy_oliver880
04-06-2006, 09:09 AM
1/32?
I think you would be ok going the diameter of your finishing nail. You want to secure your trim to your studs...There isn't going to be much holding power between the nail and the metal frame...the nail has to go into the stud. Drilling slightly under might make it harder to nail into. Gluing is ok...if you don't want to have to drill through the frame. The problem is you will have to clamp it while the glue sets up. And if you have to tear the trim off you will end up tearing at the wall. I can see it working if you stick to glueing to the steel frame...otherwise drill and nail. :smile:
Iron Mike
04-06-2006, 06:43 PM
How are you finishing the door off?
Enameling?
Wood graining?
Leaving it primer colored?
MJZiggy
04-06-2006, 07:13 PM
It's already painted white with mullions buried between the two layers of glass.
Iron Mike
04-06-2006, 07:15 PM
It's already painted white with mullions buried between the two layers of glass.
hmmmm......you should have gone with the blinds between the panes of glass.... :razz:
MJZiggy
04-06-2006, 07:17 PM
I didn't want the blinds. Then you can never change your mind about what you want. I'll take a nice curtain, thank you.
Iron Mike
04-06-2006, 07:26 PM
I didn't want the blinds. Then you can never change your mind about what you want. I'll take a nice curtain, thank you.
Well, good thing we're not married.......'cuz I want blinds, I DON'T want the door white, and if you hang a curtain with the magnetic cafe rod, half of the time it falls off when someone shuts the door. :roll:
MJZiggy
04-06-2006, 07:57 PM
I didn't want the door white either, but the other choice was about the ugliest shade of almond I've ever seen. I wasn't really thinking of magnetic curtains. If I can get this trim installed, which I've been avoiding doing like you wouldn't believe, I can hang a curtain rod on the stupid thing. The trim must go up by tomorrow, though as we're having company this weekend.
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